There are many different eyeshapes that differ us from each other. Each eye shape has a different makeup application technique to enhance its shape and hide any flaws. Let's just state & explain first each eyeshape and its features.
Almond - This shape can handle just about any look. For daytime, lightly mark the entire top lash line and dust a neutral shadow over the lid. For night, trace the top and bottom lines, and smudge for a smokey effect.
Asian – To accentuate the eyes, draw a pencil line from the middle of the upper lash lines to the outer corners and all along the bottom lids. Smudge.
Small – Line the inner rim of the lower lid with a white or light blue liner. Adding more whiteness around the eye makes it look bigger.
Round – Elongate your eyes by lining the outer two thirds of the upper and bottom lash lines and joining them at the outer corner. The line should be a little thicker at the outer corner and turn up slightly at the end.
Close-Set – The ideal space between your eyes should be approximately the width of one eye. If the space between your eyes is less than one eye-width, you have close-set eyes. Your goal is to create the illusion that your eyes are farther apart.To add the illusion of space between your eyes, keep the emphasis on the outer corners. Use a dark liner on the outer quarter of the top and bottom lash lines, and add mascara to the outer lashes only.
Keep the inside corners of your eyes and the areas closest to your nose as light as possible, to help visually push the eyes apart.
Concentrate the darker shades on the outer corners of your eyes. Always elongate your darkest shadows, out to help pull the eyes apart.
Avoid smokey eyes. Always keep the inner corners till 2/3 of your eye lid highlighted.
Wide-Set – Opposite to close-set.
To determine whether or not you have wide-set eyes, measure the width of one eye. The space between your eyes should equal the width of one eye. If the space between your eyes is greater than one eye-width, your eyes are considered wide-set. Your goal is to create the illusion that they are set closer together (visually pushing them in).To downplay space between your eyes, use a darker on the inner corners and a slightly lighter color for the rest of the lash lines. Avoid sweeping shadow out to the temples. Instead let your shadow fade out before it reaches the end of the eye.
To visually “push” your eyes closer together, you need to darken the inside hollows of your eye next to the bridge of your nose. Deepening the color in this area helps your eyes appear to be set closer together. To get the needed color depth, do not bring your contour color all the way in—just layer your midtone shade.
Begin any dark-color application slightly in from the outer corner of your eye and blend your shadow up and in instead of outward, because blending it outward will "pull" the eyes wider apart, and your goal here is to “push” them closer together.
Avoid using a dark eyeshadow over the entire lid, because it can make the lid appear heavier and will make your eyes look closed and small. It is the gradation of color from dark, at the outer corner, to light, as you move across the eyelid, that will help push away what we do not want to see and open up the eye.
Don’t be tempted to highlight the brow bone too much; this can accentuate the hooded appearance of the eyelid.
Avoid applying your highlight shade over the entire lid; it will just make your lid look even more hooded.
Deep Set eyes-As the name suggests, deep-set eyes are eyes that are set deep into their sockets. The brow bone also extends out farther with this eye shape than with any other eye shape. The goal with deep-set eyes is to bring your eyes out and forward, while pushing your brow bone back, to make the eyes look more properly set on the face. The great thing about deep-set eyes is that they are much less likely to start to droop as you age.
A dark eyelid does not work for this eye shape. You want to highlight the eyelids of deep-set eyes as much as possible, to help bring them out. A dark lid pushes them farther back into the head.
Darkening the crease is also unnecessary for this eye shape. God has given you a crease, so there’s no need to emphasize it.
There is no need to highlight the brow bone, because it is already prominent. Highlighting brings it forward even more, and we want it to recede. When you wear eyeliner, keep it as close to the lash line as possible (very thin).
Prominent/ Protruding eyes-Opposite to Deep set
If your eyelids and eyes are full and tend to extend out from the face, you have prominent eyes. The goal here is to visually “push” the eye away from us and help the eye appear to recede into the face. We do this by creating a light-to-dark effect with the three eyeshadows, with the darkest shade applied closest to the lash line and fading as you go toward the brow. For prominent eyes, we are actually trying to make the eyes appear smaller: we want to minimze their fullness.
Never highlight your eyelids—your eyes will appear even more prominent.
With this eye shape, you can apply your eyeliner all the way around your eye with the same thickness and intensity, because we actually want to close the eye in slightly.
Droopy eyes-By “droopy eyes,” I do not mean that the lid is droopy; I mean that the outer corners of your eyes turn slightly downward. They are sometimes referred to as “sad, puppy-dog eyes.” Your goal is to make the outer corners appear to turn up, rather than down. It’s actually very easy to do! You just need to start your color application slightly in from the outside corner, on top and especially along the bottom lash line.
You want to create what we call an “open-ended” eye, which means that the color from your top lash line and bottom lash line do not meet at the outer corner of the eye. If the color meets in the outside corner, it will accentuate the droop. By leaving it natural, you actually create a visual lift to the eye.
When applying mascara, be sure to concentrate on the middle to inside lashes.Defined lashes in the outer corners of the eyes also accentuate the droopiness.Be sure your eyebrows curve gently outward, never in an exaggerated, downward arch.
When wearing color along the lower lash line, begin your application about an eighth of an inch in from the outermost corner.
For this eye shape, I suggest not using eyeliner along the lower lash line. It can look too dramatic. Instead, use your contour shade to define along your lower lash line.
According to the above explanation, here are different techniques of application:
If you have missed part 1 on how to bring best in your eyes, check it out here.
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